The Vogue Business Spring/Summer 2024 menswear size inclusivity report

To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here. Since the last Vogue Business menswear size inclusivity report, momentum has been building behind plus-size representation in men’s fashion. The Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, Dazed and Esquire have called out the lack of size inclusivity in menswear over recent months. Advocates James Corbin, Raul Samuel and influencer Drake Andrews have shared their stories and campaigned for better representation of bigger bodies. Yet, despite these public outcries for change, Vogue Business data shows that the industry hasn’t made any progress since last season when it comes to plus-size representation on the men’s runway. Exclusive data gathered by Vogue Business shows just six of the 72 shows and presentations on Vogue Runway over the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear season featured at least one plus-size model — understood as EU56 or XL and above. This is down from eight shows and presentations out of 69 featuring a plus-size model for Autumn/Winter 2023. “I think designers have taken a step back,” says Corbin, who has become one of the most vocal advocates for size inclusivity in fashion over recent seasons, adding that the regression makes past progress feel insincere. Womenswear still has a long way to go, but men’s size inclusivity is even further behind. Just 12 looks, or 0.4 per cent, of the 3,044 looks presented during the SS24 menswear season were plus size, compared to 55, or 0.6 per cent, of the 9,137 women’s AW23 looks. As with last season, none of the major houses ranked as the top 50 luxury labels in the most recent edition of the Vogue Business Index featured any plus-size models, despite some like Gucci producing garments in inclusive sizing ranges, up to IT64 or XXXL. Milan was particularly lacking in size inclusivity for SS24. Out of 20 shows and presentations, Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey was the only designer to feature at least one plus-size model. Some labels, like Magliano and Dsquared2, showed a range of mid-size models (IT48-54) with different body types. Charles Jeffrey has been known for diverse casting in terms of gender, but still found there’s work to do. He recently worked with focus group Wimp, which champions trans and non-binary models, who suggested that as well as showing a different spectrum of genders, it’s important to cast people with different body shapes to be more inclusive. Jeffrey worked with Street People Casting this season to ensure better size representation. “Menswear just doesn’t seem to have the same level of attention and money as womenswear, but as menswear has transformed over the last couple of years, I do predict it potentially developing further. There needs to be more people championing these diverse sizes,” Jeffrey says. Jeffrey featured two plus-size (XXL) models in this show, but he says his own brand’s size range (up to XXL) limits him from casting larger models. Though he can create custom pieces, it’s more difficult to accommodate larger sizes during initial fittings, Jeffrey says. “To solve this challenge, we make sure that garments can be easily fitted during casting processes, making sure each piece is cleverly cut. However, our main goal is to always showcase our available size range, whether this be on or off the runway.” Paris was more size inclusive than Milan: KidSuper, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, Doublet, Marine Serre, and fashion school Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) all featured one or more plus-size looks on the runway for SS24. IFM, which showed in February rather than January last season, was the only new addition to the top ranking list. Since last season, Magliano, Bianca Saunders and Ludovic de Saint Sernin have dropped from the top ranking, as did Casablanca, which did not show this season. For Andam 2023 winner Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, his customers and supporters expect an inclusive showcase. Last season, the Parisian label had three plus-size looks. This season, Nouchi’s showcase featured two plus-size looks and two mid-size looks. “The inclusivity on the runway is to reflect the reality of our customers… it’s based on customer demand,” he says. “I don’t want them to be disappointed when they watch the show, or discover the collection in the stores and no pieces fit them.” He adds that being a designer means being able to dress a range of body types and the runway is a way for designers to illustrate how the clothes can be worn by different bodies. Marine Serre ranked fifth for SS24, featuring two mid-size looks and one plus-size look this season, compared to three plus-size looks last season. KidSuper, which ranked first with two plus-size looks and 10 mid-size looks, typically puts on a performance rather than a runway show. Notably, the format of the presentation requires the brand to showcase looks on actors or comedians rather than models. This season, the brand put on a 25-minute play entitled “How To Have An Idea”. Last season, it was a comedy show. One of the most encouraging shows for SS24 was IFM, which showed during Paris Fashion Week. Of 222 looks across the various student shows, 61 were mid-size and three were plus-size looks. For IFM fashion students, many of whom are keen to work with leading names in the fashion industry, diversity and inclusion on the runway is front of mind. “It’s something that has been completely incorporated into their mindsets,” say Thierry Rondenet and Hervé Yvrenogeau, co-directors of IFM’s BA in Fashion Design programme. “Having a standardised cast with the same body types is no longer a standard for them. This year we saw a lot of different body types, not just size plus, but also smaller, taller, muscular, shapely, very slim, older, with disabilities or scars.” IFM student Lucie Savarin featured three models with physical disabilities (including two in wheelchairs). “Right now, what I see in the industry is a lot of performativity,” says 20-year-old IFM design student Jasmine Wang — whose collection featured three mid-size models, noting that the few designers that include plus-size models will typically only feature one look out of 70. However, she argues that this can still have a positive impact on the wider industry. “Hopefully, the industry moves in a better direction. If [designers] keep doing it, even if it’s not the right idea behind it, the industry will still move forward.” Japanese sportswear brand Doublet, which took the top position last season with four plus-size looks, ranked third this season, featuring three mid-size looks and two plus-size looks. Plus-size male model Silvano Coltro walked his first ever Paris Fashion Week show this season for Doublet after two seasons of trying out in castings for a variety of brands. Being cast in Doublet’s show was a breakthrough moment for him, after feeling rejected for years. “I feel very alone [during castings] because most of the time you come and see the model board with models that all look the same, no diversity in terms of shape or colour,” he says. Part of the problem is that brands don’t create sufficient samples to fit plus-size models. “Ninety per cent of designers won’t make the effort of having an actual sample size close to your body type, or [if they do], it will be cheap fabrics like mesh and spandex,” says Coltro. “I remember some castings where I was forced to fit in clothes that were a size small or medium even though I told them I could never fit them, and they would be angry at me for breaking the [garments] or they would laugh at me for not being able to fit them.” Coltro says there are a handful of promising next-gen designers who are designing with size inclusivity in mind, but navigating the industry is still isolating. “Fashion can be beautiful, but the reality is that it’s still a very hostile landscape if you are not the beauty standard.” Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com. More on this topic: The Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2023 size inclusivity report Why menswear is falling behind on size inclusivity Plus-size men: “Luxury, we are ready for you”

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